The great standby of Desolation Sound and deservedly so. We lay to 40 m of chain in eight metres over mud that took the hook like a vice — a 40-knot squall overnight didn't budge us a boat-length.

The inner basin behind the islets is the best spot but fills early in July; the middle ground is nearly as good. Dinghy access at high water to the saltwater lagoon is worth the trip. Store ashore at the government dock with decent provisions and good cinnamon buns on summer mornings.

Watch for: the drying rock north of the entrance islets, and reversing current in the lagoon entrance — time it for slack.